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EVEN THE STRONGEST PRODUCT                  Iain Hooper, Managing Director of           top-selling brandies by volume: Klipdrift,
          category will decline if          Edward Snell, one of the country’s          Commando and Viceroy.
          neglected by its key players      leading marketers of SA and
and abandoned by those who were             international liquor brands. It produces    NOT A QUALITY PROBLEM
once its loyal customers. This is the fate  brandy under the Oude Molen and             But the brandy industry’s woes have
that has befallen brandy as a category      Wellington brands.                          nothing to do with the quality of its
in South Africa, leaving brand owners                                                   products. “You will have to try hard
with the daunting task of trying to           Reflecting the complex nature of the      to find a bad South African brandy,”
restore its faded image.                    industry’s plight, the average price of     notes Holdcroft.
                                            a 750ml bottle of brandy in 2015 was
  The rot set in well over a decade ago     R126, compared with R169 for whisky.          Uniquely, South Africa is the only
when brandy began losing its previously                                                 country where legislation requires
dominant share of the spirits market to     ?                                           brandy to be matured for at least three
whisky and, to a lesser extent, vodka. At   Brandy’s woes are                           years. Even France’s much-vaunted
the heart of the problem lay failure by     not about quality                           cognacs are required to be matured
brandy’s industry players to adequately                                                 for a minimum of only two years.
defend their brands and the product         Yet brandy is the more expensive spirit
as a whole.                                 to produce. “It takes five to seven litres    Local brandies have also repeatedly
                                            of high-quality wine to make one litre      shown they can more than hold their
  “Brandy producers sat back while          of brandy,” explains Marlene Bester,        own against the best in the world. “South
the whisky guys were working hard on        Brandy Master for Distell’s Van Ryn’s       African brandies have been judged best
marketing and the premiumisation            brand. “The distilling and maturing         in the world in 14 out of the past 16 years
of the category,” says Nick Holdcroft,      process is the same as for whisky,          at the International Spirits Challenge in
Brandy Ambassador for Stellenbosch-         which is made from far cheaper grains.”     London,” Reade-Jahn points out.
based liquor giant Distell. “By the time
brandy producers caught on they had         STOPPING THE ROT                              At the heart of brandy’s problem is the
missed the boat.”                           The brandy industry set about halting       aspiration-driven nature of consumers.
                                            the rot in 2011 through a campaign          “Younger drinkers come into the brandy
  The industry has paid a big price         led by the South African Brandy             category because it can be bought
for its former complacence, reveals         Foundation (SABF). The foundation’s         cheaply,” says Reade-Jahn. “But they are
data from the South African Wine            Director, Christelle Reade-Jahn, does       lost to whisky as their incomes rise.”
Industry Information & Systems. The         not downplay the huge challenge it
damage was especially severe in the         represents. “It’s like turning a super        Derek Ramsden put it aptly in his
seven years to 2014, during which           tanker around,” she says. “Our first goal   recent dissertation towards obtaining
brandy’s annual sales volume plunged        was to stop the bleeding. We achieved       his Cape Wine Master Diploma. “Brandy
by a massive 16-million litres (34%) to     this in 2015.”                              is seen as a common drink,” wrote
30,6-million litres.                                                                    Ramsden. “The old ‘1, 2, 3’ stigma of a
                                              Last year marked the first positive       1-litre brandy, 2-litre Coke and a 3-litre
  Whisky was the big winner, with its       showing by brandy in a decade. Volume       Ford is still attached to the category.”
annual sales volume in SA jumping           grew 1% while whisky volume fell 7%.
10,2-million litres (33%) to reach                                                      PREMIUMISATION
40,8-million litres. In value terms,          However, independent liquor market        OF BRANDS
whisky handed brandy an even bigger         analyst Elias Holtzkampf has his doubts     There is no quick fix for the brandy
thrashing, more than doubling its value     about brandy having finally turned the      industry. “We are working our way up,
to R8,5-billion compared with brandy’s      corner. He attributes the reversal in       but it could take another 10 to 15
more feeble 15% rise to R4,7-billion.       fortunes to the price of whisky jumping     years,” laments Holdcroft.
                                            in the wake of a slumping rand and the
  In the process, brandy toppled from       decision in February 2015 by Distell,         It is widely agreed by industry players
number one position in the spirits          the brandy industry’s biggest player, to    that the way brandy will work its way up is
sector. Its market share fell from 38%      hold the prices of South Africa’s three     through the premiumisation of its flagship
to 25%, while whisky’s share jumped                                                     brands. “Whisky positioned itself with a
from 35% to 45%.                                                                        few premium brands,” says Reade-Jahn.
                                                                                        “They drove the category and pulled all
  “There has been massive margin                                                        the other brands with them.” >>
erosion in the brandy industry,” says

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